Baraaza Feature: July 2008

Essao-teric

Kiteboarding With The Ghost of Hendrix

The Moroccan coast has many secrets, but few are as well kept as Essaouira. This walled beach town has managed to stay off the itineraries of package tours -for the moment at least- and because of its undriveably narrow streets, it's been relatively untouched for the last 300 years or so. The only high profile visitors have been traveling rock stars like Bob Marley and Jimi Hendrix, who was inspired by the crumbling nearby fort, Bordj El Berod, to write the song "Castles Made of Sand."

The waterfront and port draw their share of visitors, as do the city walls and the various impeccably sculpted gates, but the main attraction is the city's stunning white sand beaches uniquely suited to the rare sport of kiteboarding. Under the right conditions, the North-Easterly trade winds can be as strong as Force 7-that means up to 38 mph for the non-nautical, and big air for the seasoned 'boarder. But beginners will have no need to fear as they can hone their technique in the morning, at low tide, and towards the southern part of the bay where the wind is calmer and there are enough shallow areas to prevent things from getting out of hand. Because of the curved shape of the bay, you won't have to worry about being blown out to sea, and rescue ships are plentiful enough to prevent even the worst cases from being anything more than an inconvenience. Club Mistral is a good place to get the equipment and instruction you'll need, as well as tips for getting the most out of the beach. The club has offices from Mauritius to Barbados and has been easing travelers onto boards for more than twenty years, so you'll be in good hands.

For lodging, we like the Villa Quieta, a private palace turned hotel tucked into one of Essaouira's quieter residential districts. A scented garden surrounds the hotel-a relic from the old days-and should be more than a little comfort after a long day in the water.

Club Mistral travel@club-mistral.comhttp://www.club-mistral.com Villa Quieta86, Bd. Mohammed V., Quartier des DunesTel.044-785004; 044-785005 hotel@villa-quieta.com http://www.villa-quieta.com